Spinning Occupation in Kurdistan - Part 10

Leila Nourani

Dou ba Dana

When two distinct threads are passed through the same Kalou, that is, these two threads are passed through the "Sha" gaps. Jajm and Barmal are Dou ba Dana and Dana means "Sha".

Spinning Device

It is a particular kind of machinery that can be used to make Jaw, Kham, Barmal, Jajm, Popashmin, and Bouzou. It consists of a number of parts and sections like Dar, Takhta, and thread, which are attached together in a special way for the Jola (Spinner) to work with them.

Riddle:

"Iron, thread, and wool/ I added two ply black thread/ I drove it and it made a lot of noise"

The answer: Spinning Machine

Rayal: thread

Rayal kirdn

 To pass the thread through the machine's different parts; it also means to move the thread quickly or forcibly.

Dyeing

To change the threads' color.

Note: In order to dye the threads, they need to be prepared first and then sent to those who dye them in different colors of red, blue, green, yellow, … dye them with colorful ink or natural paint. Ink is a chemical substance that needs to be prepared. The plants used to dye threads are, "Ronyas" to color it red or pink, "Walnut peel" for crimson, "Talik" (a kind of pear) to be used for a kind of black color that is mixed with yellow, "Zartik" to be used for dying the thread yellow. These paints are used for white threads. However, if threads that already have a particular color themselves need to be dyed with natural paint, they need to be dyed with mixed paints. For example: red thread will be boiled in hot water and walnut peel to be changed into "crimson". After the thread is dyed, it shoul pass another step called "Akhshar dan" so that the color would be fixed. Threads are dyed but, Maraz (goats' wool) cannot be dyed, however, sometimes they mix it with dying substances to make a particular paint.

Ris

Any kind of wool that is spun with handmade tools such as Tashi.

Zanjira

It is a particular way of knitting used in making Barmal, however, it does not mean that other things such as Jajm, and Popashmin cannot be made in this way. In this process, the underneath layer of threads is spun in a way that looks like a braid and then they will be divided into distinct parts and the end of each part will be tied.

(See figure 80)

Sift

It includes those wefts that are spun very firmly with the wraps being intricated within them.

Sardr

1. It used to be a Kir in spinning made of cotton to be used for making a kind of cheap piece of clothing. It was worn over expensive clothes to protect them from dirt and damage.

2. A tip given to the spinners' apprentice.

3. In exchange for the spinner's work, they used to give them something apart from money which could be Kir or tools they would need.

"Like a spinner, they don't feel satisfied with their Sadr." This is a proverb and it means that some people do not feel satisfied with what they have.

Sardrou

To sew two pieces of spun fabric together.

Sara Tashi

It is a ball of wool that is not hand made but it is made with a tool called Tashi. It is also called Sara Khrila/ Sara Khrilka. (See figure 81, 82)

Se ba dana

When three distinct threads are passed through the same Kalouka, i.e., each thread is passed through a gap of the "Sha". For example, Bouzou is made with the Se ba Dana method. Cha is made in the Dou ba Dana method.

Shash

A Kir that is not firmly made and there are a lot of gaps between the wefts and wraps.

Shapitka

The spinner hits the spun fabric with Daffa every time they pass Makouk through the threads in order to firmly spin the fabric. This is called to do Shapitka.

In the old sayings and idioms, there is an expression that says: "It is not spun yet but it is crying out." The Shapitka makes a lot of noise thus, cry, means to talk about a plan publicly when it is not decided yet.

Shash Taqala

The spinner sews the pieces of the spun fabric while still working on it so that it does not fall apart. They do this with large stitches that do not look neat. There is an expression that is: "Shash taqal u manga shaw" which implies doing something hastily and carelessly.

Qourghou

It is a strong, well-polished piece of wood to be used to make Sha in the spinning machine. The width of each part of Sha is 0.5 cm and they are 11 to 15 cm long. Although Qourghou is very strong, it can be bent without being broken. (See figure 83, 84)

Kol

Two pieces of even wood or iron. The Bouzou is stuffed between these two pieces so that it would not get out wrinkled. Nowadays, they do this using Flatiron. (See figure 85)

(Source: A visit to the spinning workshop; Abdullah Samadi)

KURDŞOP
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